Best of the Tetons


Tamron 150-600mm G2 Lens: My Experiences

Back in November of 2016, I placed an order with my area dealer for one of the new Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2. For this page, I’ll simply refer to it is as a G2.

In short, I had a lot of problems with the G2 lens. It took me a while to realize I could set the AF Fine Tune at the 600mm end, but it was severely out of focus at 150mm with the same settings. I sent it in for service and adjustment to make the lens “focus neutral”. A couple of weeks later, the lens came back to me here in Jackson Hole. It was better, but I kept getting a high percentage of out of focus images. I’ve owned the original Tamron 150-600 for quite a while, so it wasn’t like I was having to learn to use a telephoto lens from scratch.

On April 4th, Tamron exchanged the G2 I purchased last November.

If you are returning to this page after reading the version I wrote in February of 2017, I can now say, “Nevermind!” I simply received a bad copy of the lens. The replacement lens is working much, much better—like the first G2 should have worked! Too bad I had to deal with the other one for so long. I still need to do a lot more shooting with the new lens, but the shots I’ve taken over the past week have been far superior. It also appears the new one is sharper than my original “G1”.

If You Are Having Problems

The rest of this page might help you. I learned a lot over the four months and will try to document them here.

First and foremost, I would suggest that you read the manual. In reality, the US section of the manual is short. The most important section if the one dealing with the various VC (Vibration Compensation) modes. I scanned that section and included it below. 

Tamron Manual Scan

If you totally understand what that says, you probably don’t need to continue reading this post!

The #1 point above is “Don’t use VC if you are shooting on a tripod”.

I don’t know how much failing to observe this rule will affect photos, but Tamron tells us the “lens may not perform sufficiently”.

“Don’t use VC unless you need it!”

That’s NOT specifically spelled out in the manual, but several readers gave the same information. Some of the info was attributed to Thom Hogan.

“Don’t use VC at shutter Speeds faster than 1/500th second.”

This rule is NOT in the manual either. Others suggested not using VC if over the “one over the focal length” formula. For example, at 400mm, don’t use VC at speeds faster than 1/400th second.

“Use Mode 2 for panning.” (but remember the fine print)

Don’t use it for panning when on a tripod, and don’t use it when shutter speeds are faster than 1/500th second.

“Use Mode 1 for standard VC situations”.

As you press the shutter button slightly, you will be able to see the effects of VC through the viewfinder, or via Live View.

“For most non-panning, slow shutter speed, non tripod shots, consider using Mode 3.”

Actually, that’s not in the manual. I had a lengthy conversation with Marc Morris, a regional Tamron Sales Representative. The rule above is his recommendation. In VC Mode 3, pressing the shutter button down half way does not seem to do anything while looking through the viewfinder. Only when the shutter button is fully depressed does the lens lock down the VC effects.

Read the Manual!

I own a Nikon 200-400mm VR lens. On the side of the barrel, VR has two settings imprinted on it. Besides the slider to turn VR Off,  One option is Normal and the other is Active. I wouldn’t need to read the manual to have a clue which one to use.

I own a Nikon 200-500mm VR lens. Similarly, it has Normal and Sport.

I own the original Tamron 150-600mm VC lens. It has one option. It is either On or Off.

With the Tamron G2, you simply see On/Off and another slider for Mode 1, 2 or 3. If you didn’t read the manual and are panning in Mode 1 or 3, you may not be getting optimum results. And, if you are not panning in Mode 2, your shots might be inferior.

Take Off

Common Scenarios

For a shot like the owl taking off, I will often be shooting on a tripod, so VC would be OFF. If I am not on a tripod, the odds are high that my shutter speed will be 1/1000 or faster, so again, VC is OFF.


In this case, I was hand holding the gear, but my shutter speed was at 1/1250th second. VC was OFF.

Bull Elk

I shot this one out the window of my truck after the sun had gone down. I did one set of shots at a 1/640th second, but the ISO jumped to 4000. VC OFF.  I adjusted the shutter speed down to only 1/60th second and set the lens to VC Mode 3 ON. ISO dropped to 720. Of the three examples, this is the only one that needed VC.

VC and Fast Shutter Speeds

I don’t know if image quality actually suffers if you leave VC ON while shooting at fast shutter speeds, but leaving it ON compromises the frame rate. If I inadvertently left the VC ON, I can hear my frame rate being considerably slower.

AF Fine Tune

Immediately after purchasing a new lens, AF Fine Tune adjustments should be performed on each camera body. Nasim Mansurov at Photography Life covers this topic very well. I used a Lens-Align on my bodies and lenses.  Marc Morris (Tamron Rep) suggested adding FoCal and a TAP-in Console to really dial the G2 lens in with each body.  Tamron will perform this operation, but it requires sending the lens and body in to Tamron. In my case, I have three bodies and would have to do it three times.

I ordered a TAP-in Console to dial in the len’s internal adjustments. Apparently, it takes a little time to enter the settings for each lens, but after tuning it, the settings can be saved on a laptop computer via the USB cable. From what I now understand, the custom settings can be entered into the lens at any time using the computer, but it needs to have an Internet connection at the time of input. The lens would need to be calibrated for each body—in my case—three times. Each would have a saved set of values. If there are substantial differences in the settings for each body, the lens would need the data files downloaded to it via the computer if changing bodies. I’d like to see the ability to download the data files via cell phone, without need to connect to the internet.

Nikon bodies allow me to set only one value for each lens. Currently, the single setting is working well with this new G2 lens across all three bodies. The FoCal software and TAP-in Console will add another $200+/-, but will work with all of Tamron’s newer lenses.

A Week in the Field

Below, I’ll add a few shots from the week. I processed them the same as I would normally process images from the G1 and first G2, along with my Nikon 200-500mm and Nikon 200-400mm.

Bison Bull

Wort Hotel


Flying Goose

Most of the images I took early in the week were hand held, often with slow shutter speeds and VC ON. I typically use faster shutter speeds and over a tripod, but the tests gave me a good idea of how far I can push the lens, following all of the guidelines suggested by the comments above. I didn’t do a lot of shots “dragging” the shutter while panning in VC2 Mode, so can’t comment on that mode. When I did use VC, I was in Mode 3, as suggested by the Tamron Rep. At 1/1250th second and 1/1600th second, I was able to freeze motion shots, while hand held. At 1/1000 second or faster, I was able to hand hold landscapes and slow moving subjects with no VC. When shooting out the window of my truck, I was able to hand hold much slower without needing the VC modes.

Rainy Night In Jackson Hole: I took the lens to downtown Jackson,WY on a rainy night, shooting with a D5 on a tripod. The G2 worked amazingly well at long shutter speeds. I used a RFN4s remote trigger and 3 second shutter delay to eliminate camera shake and mirror flap.


My wife and I took a trip to Costa Rica back in January. Instead of taking the new Tamron G2, I took my original G1 lens. All the time I was there, I felt like I made a good decision. If I had this new (replacement) G2 for a week prior to the trip, I am positive I would have taken it instead. The first G2 was boxed up and sent back to my dealer and my G1 is now hanging around for a backup or loaner. The G2 was paired primarily with my Nikon D5 all week. The D500 and D810 should get a workout over the next week or two.

Update May 24, 2017

Tamron offers to Fine Tune a G2 to your camera for free. Pay the shipping to the Service Center, and they will professionally fine tune the lens “on a micron level” and send it back at their expense. I heard the term “micron level” from Marc Morris, the Tamron sales rep that helped me switch my original G2 old lens. In early May, I packaged up my Nikon D5 and the new lens and sent it to New York. They are supposed to service the combo and get it out in three days, but they had to order an XQD card from B&H before they could do the work. In the end, it took two and a half weeks to get the package back.

During the service period, I used my Nikon D500 and Nikon 200-500mm lens, so I didn’t really feel like I was missing shots.

The wait was worth it! After a few shots of songbirds in my back yard, I took the combo out for some real world shooting. Actually, I thought the new lens was good before I sent it in, but it is even better now. I don’t know what they did, but the expense and time was worth it.

These were all taken the first day after unpacking the box.

Splashing Calf

The images are processed the same as I always process my RAW files.

Five Day Old Calf

Splashing Moose

Marsh Wren

Cinnamon Teal

Most of these images were taken at quick shutter speeds (1/800 second to 1/1250 second). None were captured with VC ON.

Cross Fox Kit

When I have time, I will do the normal AF Fine Tune with this lens with my Nikon D810 and the D500 using my Lens-Align, but I don’t plan on doing any internal adjustments on the lens.

If you purchase a Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens, I’d suggest sending it in for the factory tuning. That’s assuming you can live without you lens and body for a couple of weeks.

Keep an eye on this Daily Journal page for a lot more G2 photos: April 2017 Daily Journal for JH and GTNP


June 12th Addition: I took this shot at 1/60th of a second, handheld using a Nikon D500 and the G2 lens. A D500 has a 1.5 crop factor and the shot was taken from the road at 250mm on a rainy evening. At 1/60th second, I had VC ON in Mode 3, and the lens did a good job when I wanted to capture the motion and blur of the moving water.


Thanks to Chris Balmer and Perfect Light Camera and Supply for going to bat for me with Tamron.

Please Note: Many of the comments below were referencing the original post in which I was explaining all of my problems with the lens. This post would have been much different if my first G2 had not been so far out of spec.

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Comments (46)

  1. Dave Obrien

    Tuning a lens to a body is great!
    Until you change to another body…not for me!

    We enjoy your site!

  2. Mike, Thanks for a full and honest appraisal complete with the caveats. What was the differential in the LensAlign numbers for your first generation 150-600 at 150 and 600?

  3. Thanks Mike! You probably have saved me a lot of aggravation. I think I’ll hold off upgrading to it at least for now. Hope to see you in a few months.

  4. Mike, I’m sorry that you felt this was one of the most difficult posts for you to write. For me it is one of the most valuable. Great shots etc. but as of this minute your struggle to write this may be saving me $500. I was “sold” on the G2 and was planning on buying one this winter to get ready for the May return of wildlife. But I think the original Tamron 150-600 may be the better investment. Thanks for all the time this took you to explore and write.

  5. Hello Mike, I am one who bought the first generation 150-600 based on your review. I am glad that I did. I hope you get things resolved with Tamron. All equipment maufacturers need to realize that they are no longer “the only game in town”. I really appreciate your photos and your writing.

  6. Barney,
    It has been a long time since I checked the original Tamron 150-600mm, but I don’t think there was much difference from 600mm to 150mm. For that lens, I tend to shoot most often in the 500-600mm range which probably doesn’t have any fluctuation. If I had been seeing a lot of blurry photos at 150mm, I would have been checking it — just as I did this one. Other than the use of a cheap clear glass filter initially, the original lens never gave much of a reason to question the output on either body.

  7. Randy, I have hinted a few times in my image comments that I was not 100% satisfied with the lens, and a few people picked up on the hints. They’d send emails and I’d explain what I was going through (part of how I was in contact with the other photographer that sent his lens and body in for pairing). I never like seeing someone bash a product if they hadn’t really done their homework. And really, I am not bashing Tamron now! I admit that some of my issues were a result of not reading their documentation. I shot some today with the G2 using my D810, but captured all of them hand held using what I think is the correct VC MODE. They were better, across the board, but even so, having to “think” and switch Modes based on the situation is one more step. Switching from MODE 1 to MODE 2 at the instant an Owl takes off can cost important shots, too! Keep an eye on the Daily Journals and maybe I can document some improvements in my use of the lens.

  8. Hi Mike:

    Thanks for that Tamron lens critique. I was going to buy the latest/greatest Tamron but my favorite photo store here in Portland Oregon is out. So maybe that was good luck. Perhaps it’s best I get the Nikon 200-500mm with the d500 body, (wildlife kit.) What would you suggest? Really appreciate your advice and your fabulous pictures are a real inspiration. Few pictures can beat a really good animal picture.

  9. Why are you trying to use VC at shutter speeds higher than 1/500? Turn it off!

    VC is meant for low light situations with slow shutter speeds. The sampling feedback loop works at roughly 1000Hz and cannot fully define vibration at speeds more than half that rate. Hence at shutter speeds over 1/500 it might be an improvement or it might make things worse.

  10. Blake Marchant

    Mike, Thanks for the update review on the G2 Lens, I am another one who purchased the original based partly on your experience with it. I also hope Tamron should contact you and see if they can make it right without a ton more time and expense on your part.

    I have also seen that you have been using a D500. I was wondering how you like it?

    Thanks for all of the time you take in posting to the Best of the Tetons. I have told 100’s of people about Best of the Tetons and how great it is and all of those who have responded tell me how glad they are that I shared it with them. thanks again.
    Blake Marchant

  11. Floyd, thanks for the comments. They are probably dead on accurate…but wouldn’t you think Tamron would include that important bit of information in the documentation? If the VC over 1/500 second is a problem, I could add it to the list I’ve already mentioned that I could have done wrong. While I wasn’t specifically addressing this issue, I mentioned turning off VC on birds in flight. At 1/1250 second or so, some of the user’s motion is negated and the camera fires at full speed. If you don’t mind, I will amend the post with your quote. Thanks! MJ

  12. I sold my G1 and purchased the G2 also. At long focal lengths, my G2 on a D500 is significantly sharper and 2 pounds lighter than my Sigma Sport. I do a lot of closeups with my G2 and have noticed that sometime the images are just lousy. I blamed it on being too close to the subject without realizing it. I started backing up and using “live view” and that seems to have solved that problem. I do leave VC mode 1 on all the time but the tripod I used is not exactly the most sturdy. I primarily use a tripod for framing. I will try to more aware in the future but right now it seems like a pretty awesome combo.

  13. I bought a gently used Tamron last September. I certainly thought about getting the G2, but the cost was a factor. I’m glad I did what I did though. I don’t think I would be happy with a G2 because I often wouldn’t think about what setting the lens should be on. Too many things to think about, without worrying about the lens too. Thanks for the in depth analysis.

  14. Sayanda

    Hi, came across this presentation on Tamrons new 70-200 G2 which uses the same VC, on minute 27 you get some explanation of the 3 modes.


  15. Sayanda, do you have the link for the post or presentation? I’d love to read it and include the link in the post.

  16. Sayanda

    Sorry, i thought i had included it :

  17. Mike, Your photographs are spectacular and your information is incredibly helpful. And now I have learned another important attribute about you; you have great credibility. Your comment (“I never like seeing someone bash a product if they hadn’t really done their homework. And really, I am not bashing Tamron now! I admit that some of my issues were a result of not reading their documentation.’) impressed me that you would take responsibility for not reading the instructions (a problem that most, if not all, of us have experienced) and that you will work to find more answers for all of us. I will probably be buying the “old Tamron” rather than the G2 for a couple reasons. I’ll save myself $500 and I save myself the frustration of trying to master changing the VR.

  18. jeff c birmingham

    Mike sorry, I guess I never got back to you on how my 150-600 worked with another body. My wife put it on her 5Dmk4 and had really good luck with it. She shot a lot of birds both standing still and flying with good results from both. It seems to be work great now. But like you said I don’t think after buying a new lens you should have to spend more money to send it in to be adjusted to make it work right. But with that said i’m glad I did. Now with her 150-600G2 we where getting the same issues as mine. But I was able to adjust it with the tap in console. The way I did this was to work at the focus distance that is in the tap in console I think it was 7.2 feet and 65 feet you have one more infinity but i didn’t mess with that one. I adjusted each setting 150,200,300,400,500,600 at both measurements. Its a big pain but it worked. The adjustments I was having to use for each MM where not the same something like 150 -4, 200 -6, 300 -10 and so on they got bigger as i went with 600 ending up around -16 if i remember right. I did this for both 7.2 feet and 65 feet yes it is very time consuming. At 7.2 feet I used a little cheap alinement box thing I bought from B N H and at 65 feet i used a yellow and black 4 foot long by 3″ wide metal ruler tied to my chainlink fence with a 3×3″ black piece of tape in the center. I ended up having to put a piece of 1×6 wood behind the center where i had the tape so that i had a larger subject to focus on and not be focusing on something in the back ground as the tape was really small at 150 and 200mm so far away. I shot it at about a 45* angel. Believe it or not but the chainlink fence helped a lot as for as telling where the camera was focusing. After doing this she started getting really clean sharp photos with her lens and has worked great ever sense. She took it to a whooping crane festival this weekend and got some great shots. I have one more to adjust being I bought 3 of them. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Thanks Mike O and i did end up buying a canon 600mm for our next JH trip see ya soon.

  19. Hi Jeff, Thanks for taking the time to post your comments here. Actually, my AF results were -4 at 150mm and -16 at 600mm originally. Looks like the same as yours. It makes me wonder about sending in all three bodies and the lens to Tamron for a week or so and use my dusty D4 and other lenses for a week. I am happy to hear their pairing with your gear helped! MJ

  20. Jack Pearson

    From the test images I’ve seen, the Tamron 150-600mm G2 is visibly sharper than both the original Tamrron 150-600mm and the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary, and nearly as sharp as (but much lighter than) the Sigma 150-600mm Sport. Two lessons from the author’s experience: Read the Manual and check the focus (front/back). As far as switching lens modes when an animal starts moving: Try setting the shutter speed high enough to capture the expected motion and leave the VR off.

  21. Jack, you are spot on regarding the two lessons! And, I am grateful to anyone willing to share their evaluations when comparing their various lenses. You can see that Jeff Birmingham had similar issues with his front and back AF Fine Tune which caused him problems initially. If following Floyd Davidson’s advice, turning VC OFF appears to be the solution for the perched/flying birds with shutter speeds over 1/500th second, just as you suggested.

  22. Is the lock on the G2 (to avoid lens creep) “better” because it can be locked on 150 AND 250mm and 600 mm or are both Tamron 150-600 only locked-on at 150. I recently bought the “old” 150-600 and was a little disappointed that I couldn’t lock-on other than 150.

  23. Randy, there were lots of small improvements on the G2 that made it enticing to purchase sight unseen. I placed my order for the G2 before seeing hands-on reviews. The lock on the barrel of a G2 locks anywhere.

  24. Sayanda

    Randy, the G1 locks on both 150 and 400mm

  25. jeff c birmingham

    Mike i’m glad to here that you got your lens swapped out. After my last post on here about this lens and the problems. I sent Tamron a link to this post. A couple days later they emailed me saying they where glad to see other peoples reports and that you where happy with the lens. I replied back letting them know that they needed to reread the Blog because you where not happy with the lens and having to use your old lens I let them know that the only reason that i have bought any of there lenses was because of your blog page. As well as many other people that follow your blog. I also told them i wasn’t happy about having bought 3 G2’s and having to pay to have them adjust them. when they make the tap in console that is supposes to fix any adjustments needed for fine tuning. I doubt this helped but i want them to know what was going on and how much money they had made off of this blog not just off of me but every one else that follows you. Hope that you have as good luck with this new one as you did with your older G1!!!

  26. Hi Jeff, Thanks for this note. I think the final push on my lens came from Chris Balmer at Perfect Light Camera and Supply in Idaho Falls. He told the reps that I had helped sell a lot of their first lens and could either help G2 sales or hurt them. I am not vindictive by nature, but I certainly wasn’t happy with the G2 I purchased originally. It was a pleasant surprise actually get to shoot with the replacement lens as it is so much better than the first one. I will now be leaving the G1 at home.

  27. jeff c birmingham

    Man mike that sure is great news. i know after the trouble with the ones i bought i was ready to go back to sigma sport. Keep the pics coming i’m having bad JH withdrawals I may have to break down and make three trips this year!!!!!

  28. francine dollinger

    I am glad to see it was a bad copy. I was planning on getting one but after reading your review I didn’t. Now I think I will get one, the only thing I am weary about is the 3 VR buttons. I have the NIkon 80-400 and I am happy with it but sometimes I need that extra reach. I am worried about getting a bad copy and having enough time to figure it out to return if need be. The Auto Fine tune adjustment well I have no clue about it. Like Mary in Feb there is so many things to consider when taking that picture. I love your posts.

  29. From what I’ve seen, many people are happy with the G2s, which was what had me puzzled. I am sure part of issues with the lens was my fault, and probably some that was from using the wrong VC mode before I finally read the manual. I am getting a much higher keeper rate with this replacement lens. Good luck with your decisions!

  30. francine dollinger

    Thank you for all your information posted. I love reading your posts and seeing your pictures

  31. Hans Forsström

    Hi, found a lot interesting and useful reading about the G2 lens here. Thanks for sharing. However I didn’t come by your blog in time to read your original post from November on your G2-problems. As I’m having som af-issues with my copy of this lens it would indeed be of great interest to read that blog post. If possible please e-mail it to me.
    Thanks in advance / Hans

  32. Hi Hans, I copied all of the first post into a new draft page, but I am not sure how I’d be able to email it to you. The problem I had was inconsistent AF Fine Tune settings at the various focal lengths. At 600mm, my AF Fine Tune setting was -16. At 150mm, it needed to be set at -4, but since my Nikon bodies allow only one setting, I couldn’t get consistent shots. The other issues are fairly well spelled out in the current version of the post. You need to understand the three different VC modes and know when to use it and when to leave it turned off. In short, only use it when the shutter speed is below 1/500th second. And, don’t use VC on a tripod. And…make sure you are not using VC2 mode unless you are panning at slow shutter speeds.

  33. I am buying a Tamron G2 150-600 which I intend to use on my D7200. My D500 is to be used mostly with wider angles which I have had great results with.

  34. Janet Lewis

    I had the G1 (now sold) and upgraded to the G2 after reading many positive reviews. I too, have experienced some disappointment with the G2 (shooting with a Canon 80D for birds and wildlife…use my 6D for macro/landscape/etc.), particularly when at the long end – the images are consistently just NOT sharp. That said, your information about the VC is very helpful. I did not even KNOW about the online instructions, so I will try shooting with the VC off. I am a lousy hand holder…always have been, and with this lens IF I handhold I am generally at 1/800 sec or faster. But I had the VC on…and from your posts, I guess I should have had it off. I don’t own the dock… wondering if I should try sending the lens and camera in to Tamron for the alignment. What is the cost to do that and where can I find that information out? I am going to Costa Rica in October and I would like to get this issue resolved before then!

  35. Hi Janet, Yes…I’d suggest sending your lens AND your body to Tamron. Just call them for the steps…essentially it is a “repair”. You pay to ship it to them and they pay to ship it back. Mine took a little over two weeks from the time is sent it until it came back. They had to order an XQD card for my D5 which cause a bit my delay (you would have thought they would have had them already). Mine was performing well before I sent it in, but it is even better now. It cost me $45 for the shipping to them. I wish they had the option to pay a little more to get the return overnight or at least 2 day, but they ship it by ground. Despite the wait, it was well worth it! It’s interesting, I was fighting the first copy of my G2 and was looking for whatever might be causing the problems. The rule of thumb now is to leave VC off except for times of slow shutter speeds and OFF the tripod, but I’d like to test some shots to see if the VC actually causes problems above 1/500th second. On my D5, I can tell you that VC slows down the frame rate by two or three frames per second.

  36. Janet Lewis

    Thank you for your quick reply. Would sending the lens/camera back to Tamron be preferred to purchasing the FoCal software and doing it myself? I had actually been considering purchasing the software independent of this situation. Do I need to have the Tamron Tap-In Console to enter the micro focus adjustments? I was never really clear what the advantage would be having the Tap-In console. My impression was that the FoCal software made the adjustment for me. But I may be incorrect in that assumption.

  37. francine dollinger

    I bought the lens. I got some really great shots. I had to return it because 3 times I had to shut off the camera to get it to focus. BH was great about it. It was a shame. I will wait a couple of months for a sale and repurchase it.

  38. FoCal costs something like $135 and the Tap-In console costs $55-$80. I think you’d need both if going that route. The Tap-In console will work with the 150-600mm and their 70-200mm G2 lenses, and probably anything else they make in the future, so the investment might be able to spread out over several lenses. I didn’t buy the FoCal software or the Tap-In console and instead opted to let Tamron calibrate the lens to my main camera body (D5). ($45 for shipping was cheaper than $175-$200 plus the time it would take)

    If you go with FoCal, you can let the software fill in the 24 fields or settings after it does the calibration. It is partially automated…but I don’t know how automated. In the end, it saves the data in the lens. Each body can be calibrated to the same lens, and that data can be stored on a computer that can be loaded back into the lens. The rep said the computer needs Internet to apply the settings via a USB cable, so if someone is in the Arctic, they’d likely be stuck with only calibrations for the one body and lens.

    I asked Tamron if I can get my settings for my G2 and D5 combo, but they don’t give that out. I thought it was simply the FoCal chart of settings, but they said what they do is much more sophisticated. I didn’t want to write over their settings if I calibrated it to a different body. They told me I could still use something like Lens Align with the G2 on my other bodies and it should be good. That was something I planned to trying today. I don’t plan on buying FoCal or the Tap-In console now.


    I just received the G2 and I have Focal. I’m using a 5D III, and unless I’m doing something really wrong, I could only calibrate the wide and long ends. I’m struggling with the tap-in console – if there’s a way to use it with Focal please let me know.

    With the 5D III, Focal cannot automatically set the micro-adjustments because Canon won’t allow it. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.

  40. Johnnie, I spent quite a bit of time researching the FoCal and Tap-In Console, but since I didn’t buy either, I can’t be of much help. I thought the Canon version of the software was almost fully automated and was less so on the Nikon option. Seems like they were working on making it more automatic at the time. I wish I could help!

  41. Jan Lewis

    I just boxed up my 150-600 g2 and my camera body to send to Tamron for them to inspect and do focus micro adjustments. Took it to UPS for shipment and including insurance it was gonna be $85! Does that seem right to you? I think most of that was insurance.

  42. Jan, Mine cost me $45 for shipping through the Post Office. I have commercial insurance on my gear, so I didn’t pay extra to the PO for shipping (as instructed by my agent). It will seem like a long wait, but should be worth it!

  43. Vinnie

    I’m so glad I found this article. I was about to give up on my copy of this lens. As soon I was finished reading about turning off VC, I went and tested it. Sure enough the image without VC was sharper than the one with it on using the shutter speed rule.

    Thank you for sharing this information! I only wish I found it sooner.

  44. Good Reading! I haven´t had to adjust the focus om my G2 on either of my nikon´s, it´s sharp as it is. My major problem is the buttons on the side, wich constantly moves without my permission, so when I press the trigger to take a picture, the AF or the VC has been affected. I´ve placed a rubber armband over the buttons, wich works fine until you want to change the settings of the buttons. Still looking for a better solution, though, Other than that, fantastic lens! Have gotten many wonderful pictures of animals and Aircraft with it!

  45. jeff birmingham

    Niclas If your buttons are just moving with out you moving them I would send it back because that is not normal at all. I have three of those lenses and none of my buttons move with out me doing it. Unless you are bumping them they do still out a little more than some lenses.

  46. I keep a bean bag over the console between seats and often set the camera and lens diagonally across it with the barrel dangling to the passenger’s seat. In this scenario, it is possible for me to inadvertently push or pull one of the three sliders as I lift the lens from the bean bag. In that case, it is not the lens’ fault, and it happens similarly with all of my longer lenses. I check the sliders fairly often as a result, and if I see I am having an issue while shooting, I am quick to check the switches.

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